1950s Lucite Reverse Carved Faceted Flower Brooch depicting a Bouquet of Flowers shops

1950s Lucite Reverse Carved Faceted Flower Form Brooch
depicting Bouquet of Flowers

A lovely reverse carved Lucite brooch
featuring a beautiful bouquet of flowers in a vase.
Seven blooms and three leaves.
The brooch itself also has a floral form
with exquisite reverse carving and painting
and a strong bevelled edge.
A simple pin with catch on reverse completes the picture.
The brooch measures 1 7/8 inches across by 1/4 inch deep.


We love vintage reverse carved Lucite Jewellery, especially the little brooches from the 1940s and 1950s.  Lucite is a trade name for acrylic thermoplastic (Perspex is another name), and it is shops a fabulous material which can be melted down and re-used.

As well as being factory made, reverse carving Lucite was a popular home made craft hobby during the mid 20th century. 

The reverse carving was finished by painted the inside using acrylic paints, oils or water based colour pigments (which is why you should never get them wet as the paint sometimes dissolves!)

Vintage Lucite Jewellery

First manufactured in the 1930s as a protective coating or safety bonding for glass, the clear acrylic plastic branded as Lucite became a wildly popular material for costume Jewellery in the 1940s and ‘50s. Less expensive to produce than Bakelite, Galalith, and Catalin and more chemically stable than celluloid, Lucite made these earlier Jewellery plastics obsolete.

In its pure form, genuine Lucite is translucent, resembling glass or rock crystal, but it can be dyed in a wide range of colours and opacity, making it the perfect material for bold blocks of Mid-century Modern colours. Hard, water-resistant, and lightweight, Lucite can be carved and polished, and it is easy to wear.

The scientists at two rival chemical companies, DuPont and Rohm & Haas, spent the 1930s working on glass-like acrylic resins (a.k.a. polymethyl methacrylate). Rohm & Haas launched its version, the clear and nearly unbreakable Plexiglass, first in 1935. DuPont brought Lucite to the market in 1937.

Both of these materials were used by the military in periscopes, windshields, gunner turrets, cockpits, and the noses of bomber planes. Only, DuPont, though, was clever enough to freely license its new material to multiple costume-Jewellery makers.

Trifari was the first to embrace this new plastic in the late 1930s, using large, clear cabochons of Lucite to imitate rock crystals and form the “bellies” of animal figural brooches known as Jelly Bellies. Head Trifari designer Alfred Philippe ran with this concept in the 1940s, producing a whimsical Jelly Belly menagerie of hatching chicks, crowing roosters, proud poodles, ball-balancing seals, fat bumble bees, and regal elephants. One rare Jelly Belly pin even features tiny fish carved into a round Lucite tank, which a cat dangles from a chain.

A popular rumor about Jelly Belly is that they were manufactured from recycled World War II fighter windshields. The story, said to be in the historical archives of Trifari, goes that Philippe was surveying a pile of “unusable” material at an Air Force scrap heap and had a stroke of genius to carve the leftover acrylic into Jelly Belly cabochons.

Jewellery historian Bobye Syverson, who also flew and worked on some of the planes, questions this story, explaining that the windshields were only ¼ to ½ of an inch thick. Although it's true that many military mechanics would carve rings out of Lucite windshields as souvenirs for their girlfriends, those tended to yellow in a way Jelly Bellies do not.

Seeing how popular these brooches were after the war, Coro produced its own copycat line under the Corocraft brand, including a fox, mallard duck, and an angel fish. Trifari sued the company for stealing its idea, but soon other costume jewelers were releasing their own unsigned Jelly Bellies. While many animal figurines were made with coloured Lucite bellies, to be considered a “true” Jelly Belly the acrylic must be clear.

Joseph H Meyer Bros., producers of the Richelieu brand of costume Jewellery, patented its own version of Lucite in the 1940s called Satinore. Often referred to as moonglow Jewellery, its opaque plastic included a substance that produced a pearly shine and was used on everything from vintage brooches to imitation pearl necklaces. Coro also used opaque Lucite as a synthetic substitute for certain natural minerals, like moonstone and chalcedony.

In the 1950s, as modernism took hold, Lucite dominated costume Jewellery and was used to make brightly coloured all-plastic rings, bracelets, and bangles, as well as beads and ornaments on earrings and necklaces. It could also be adapted to have a translucent colouring called "apple juice." Vintage Lucite Jewellery produced between 1940 and 1953 often included glitter, rhinestones, confetti, tiny flowers, or sea shells embedded into the transparent plastic, while wider bangles sometimes had patterned designs carefully carved into their interiors.

Lisner made a tremendous range of Lucite items, in every colour and shape imaginable. Until recently, these pieces were dismissed by collectors, but now the popularity of these items is on the rise, particularly the coloured Lucite oak-leaf pieces. In the '50s, Lucite was still considered fairly classy, whittled into all sorts of figures and shapes and used for hard-side purses and even stiletto high-heel shoes.

In the early '60s, the concept of disposable culture became something to celebrate, as seen in the cheap mod fashions sold on Carnaby Street in London and the rise of pop art. Mass-produced plastic Jewellery was all the rage among the trendy, as Lucite was turned into fake-looking flower pins, as well as bracelets made of mahjong tiles.

At the same time, geometric Space Age fashion by haute couture designers like Cardin and Courèges encouraged PVC dresses and accessories of Lucite and Perspex (another acrylic). “Architec-jewels” made of Lucite in bold black-and-white op-art styles were sold as high fashion.

Costume and “junk” Jewellery fell out of favor in the '70s, even as Lucite was used in disco platform shoes. But acrylic Jewellery made a comeback in the 1980s when garish, artificial-looking neon-coloured pieces came into fashion.